Renowned for venturing into unexplored realms of fine watchmaking, A. Lange & Söhne is forging a unique path in the presentation of its timepieces. Until September 24th, the exquisite atrium of Fine Watches within Harrods will host an exclusive exhibition showcasing the latest additions to the A. Lange & Söhne collection. This presentation echoes the brand’s appearance at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2023.

Commanding attention within the grand gallery-like space, a towering replica of the recently launched ODYSSEUS CHRONOGRAPH leaves an impactful impression. This five-meter-tall hallmark, reminiscent of A. Lange & Söhne’s presence in Geneva offers enthusiasts and connoisseurs an in-depth glimpse into the realm of Lange’s intricate watch mechanics and exceptional craftsmanship. Just like the timepieces on display, this meticulous reproduction reflects the pursuit of perfection and the unparalleled quality synonymous with A. Lange & Söhne.

The ODYSSEUS CHRONOGRAPH marks the latest chapter in the success story of the sporty-elegant watch family, introduced four years ago. Encased in stainless steel, the newly developed L156.1 calibre represents A. Lange & Söhne’s first self-winding chronograph movement. With a central minute counter and dynamic reset-to-zero function, this timepiece elevates the contemporary and distinctive design of the watch family to new technical heights.

Alongside the ODYSSEUS models, the exhibition features previous iterations of the ODYSSEUS watch family, as well as novelties like the new ZEITWERK and the redesigned GRAND LANGE 1, akin to the selection showcased at the Geneva watch exhibition.

Since 2011, A. Lange & Söhne timepieces have been available at Harrods’ Fine Watches department. The recently revamped boutique on the historic department store’s ground floor welcomes watch collectors and enthusiasts to an inviting space radiating refinement. Housing the manufacturer’s six watch families, including the latest releases and exclusive limited boutique editions, the store epitomizes sophistication.

Established by Dresden watchmaker Ferdinand Adolph Lange in 1845, A. Lange & Söhne laid the foundation for Saxony’s precision watchmaking industry. Despite challenges, the brand’s legacy persisted, and in 1990, Walter Lange, Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s great-grandson, revived the brand’s essence. Today, Lange crafts a limited number of meticulously assembled wristwatches each year, boasting proprietary movements. With over 71 manufacturing calibres since 1990, A. Lange & Söhne stands among the world’s finest watch brands, renowned for remarkable creations such as the LANGE 1 and the ZEITWERK.

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Spread across nearly 890 square meters, the world of Tiffany & Co. in Ginza captivates visitors with gentle curves, soft colours, and an ambience that exudes warmth and refinement. Within this enchanting space, exceptional artworks share the stage with the House’s iconic collections. Notably, a novel diamond vitrine design concept immerses visitors in the refined universe of Tiffany & Co.

The first floor of the store showcases celebrated collections, such as Tiffany T, Tiffany Hardwear, and Tiffany Lock, which have become synonymous with the brand. Additionally, there’s a dedicated area honouring the late legendary designer Elsa Peretti®, who joined Tiffany & Co. in 1974 and enchanted the world with her organic and sensual designs. The design of this space pays homage to her aesthetic, featuring furnishings made of cork, inspired by her renowned Bean design.

Read our guide to the best hotels in Ginza

Venturing to the second floor, clients can explore Tiffany’s iconic Love & Engagement collection, including the timeless Tiffany® Setting, first introduced by the founder Charles Lewis Tiffany in 1886. This groundbreaking six-prong setting elevated the diamond, revolutionizing modern engagement rings. The floor also houses an exquisite selection of Tiffany High Jewelry creations, showcasing the legendary creativity of designer Jean Schlumberger.

As one of the most gifted artists of the 20th century, Schlumberger joined Tiffany in 1956 and left an indelible mark on the jeweller’s history. Among his extraordinary works, the Bird on a Rock brooch remains one of Tiffany & Co.’s most exceptional creations. Additionally, a redesigned private salon now offers guests a luxurious living room experience, where you can revel in a magical interlude.

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AVI’s Roots 

In the 1930s, Breitling’s Huit Aviation Department made its name creating precision cockpit clocks and dedicated wrist chronographs for what was at that time, a burgeoning industry of aeronautics. Fast forward two decades and the brand launched the ground-breaking flight instrument, the Ref. 765 AVI, a  pilot’s chronograph with a rotating 12-hour bezel for recording flight times. This easy-to-operate, highly legible watch was a game-changer for aviators, so much so that it became known as the AVI “Co-Pilot.” Then in 2021, the pioneering watch became the inspiration for the Super AVI, a collection of 46 mm timepieces, built to represent four of history’s greatest aircraft: the North American Aviation P-51 Mustang, the Vought F4U Corsair, the  Curtiss P-40 Warhawk, and the de Havilland Mosquito. 

Rugged and Easy-Eearing

But the Super AVI didn’t work for all, so Breitling came up with a solution.  “People love the sturdy, understated look of the Super AVI, but not everyone has the wrist to pull off the extra-large size that gives it its authentic tool-watch feel,” says Breitling CEO  Georges Kern. “The Classic AVI trades some functions to achieve the pared-down format our  customers have been asking for. The Classic and Super models will now live side by side,  providing more choice.” The Classic AVI comes without the GMT complication that gives the Super some of its bulk, while the Breitling Caliber 23 chronograph movement further trims the profile and makes the Classic AVI attractive from a value perspective as well.  

A Classic Aesthetic

The original colour schemes paying homage to the four aircraft remain; a black dial and gold-brown leather strap to represent the versatile Mustang, a blue dial with black strap in tribute to the naval Corsair, a khaki dial with brown  strap for the camouflaged look of the Warhawk, and a black dial with black ceramic bezel on a brown strap to capture the Mosquito plane known as the “Wooden Wonder.” The aircraft’s roundels and markings are reflected on the hands and subdials. The planes’ engraved silhouettes appear on the back of the cases, (which comes in stainless steel for all models, with an additional 18K red gold version of the Mustang). And customers have the option of a top-stitched calfskin leather strap or a five-row metal bracelet. Owners can scan the dial to locate the “hidden” GPS coordinates of the Breitling Chronometrie and there are references to the spec stamps that used to appear on the brand’s vintage cockpit clocks, including the ones made by the Huit Aviation Department.  

The Super AVI Mosquito Night Fighter 

In an era of aluminium and steel shortages, the engineers behind the Havilland Mosquito made use of wood, which was plentiful. The “Wooden Wonder”  caused shockwaves when it outperformed its metal counterparts to become one of the fastest planes of its time. There were many incarnations, including the Super AVI Mosquito Night Fighter which gets its inspiration from the Night Fighter 2. The watch pays tribute to the plane’s dark livery with a black ceramic case, black military leather strap, and black dial with anthracite subdials. The overall monochrome appearance contrasts strikingly with the titanium pushers, crown, and buckle.  

As with all Super AVI, the design includes large, legible Arabic numerals and a sturdy 46 mm case. A knurled bezel and fluted crown provide optimal grip, even while wearing gloves. A second-time zone is available on the 24-hour scale inner bezel and the grey-tipped GMT hand.  Its COSC-certified Breitling Manufacture Caliber B04  movement provides approximately 70 hours of power and is visible through the open titanium case-back, etched with the Night Fighter’s outline.  

The Ref. 765 AVI 1964 Re-Edition 

First released in 1953, the original Ref. 765 AVI, aka the Co-Pilot, was a workhorse in the often unforgiving conditions of a single-seat cockpit. By the 1960s, the AVI’s simplified style and oversized proportions made it a watch to wear beyond the cockpit. One particular 765 AVI from 1964, with a black bezel and reverse-panda dial, was a celebrity and sports star favourite, famously seen on the French skier Jean-Claude Killy as he won gold in all three alpine skiing events at the 1968 Winter Games. Today, a limited re-edition of 164 pieces faithfully reproduces this execution’s design with true-to-the time hesalite crystal, baton indexes and lumed pencil hands. But there are also modern improvements, like the durable amorphous diamond-like carbon (ADLC) coating that gives the bezel its black finish, the Caliber B09 and a case back engraving “One of 164.” 

Georges Kern says: “Everything about this re-edition is so Breitling because you can see our aviation tool-watch roots coming through, yet it’s precisely that simplicity that gives it its universal appeal. That’s also why the AVI, in all its forms, has stood the test of time to  become one of our most emblematic collections.”  

www.breitling.com

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Henry Fleuss

Born in Marlborough, Wiltshire in 1851, Fleuss went on to have a career at sea, beginning at age 16. During his time as an officer with the P&O Company, he would observe divers recovering lost cargo in heavy and cumbersome apparatus. This inspired him to find a way in which they could be free of both the surface of the water (to venture further beneath) and the team required to manhandle all the kit required. With an understanding of physiology and chemistry, Fleuss developed a source of compressed oxygen, with the absorption of carbon dioxide, removing the need for any external support. The innovative inventor built and tested much of the apparatus himself, despite having no previous experience in diving!

This led to Fleuss becoming an engineer and Master Diver for Siebe, Gorman & Co. where he went on to create the Davis Submarine Escape Apparatus (a collaboration with Robert Davis). Neat and compact, this became the first practical closed-circuit breathing apparatus, a key breakthrough which paved the way for the Frogmen and Human Torpedo riders of World War II.

Bringing Fleuss into the 21st century

Fast forward to 2023 and the Fleuss Marlborough diver watch, a piece evocative of the design language of the late 1800s and early 1900s, the period during which Fleuss was most active. Featuring cathedral-style hour and minute hands, the semi-transparent dial has a set of hour indexes finished in Swiss Super-LumiNova to achieve the best visibility of the date and time, in low-light conditions.

The solid stainless steel case is appropriately marine grade; 43mm in diameter with a scratch-resistant sapphire lens and a custom-built 7-link solid stainless steel bracelet with a fold-over diver clasp. A “pumpkin” style crown brings a look of the early 19th century and a water-resistant genuine leather strap finishes the look. Spinnaker’s engineering ensures its fully fit for its specific purpose, water resistant to 15 ATM (150M) and powered with a TMI NH35 automatic movement.

The Fleuss Automatic Marlborough Limited Edition timepiece is available in two colours, each with a limited edition run of 250 pieces. spinnaker-watches.co.uk

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The Wow effect

The watch takes its name from the brand’s silk scarf, designed two years ago by the young comic book artist Ugo Bienvenu and emblematic of Hermès’ signature equestrian heritage.

It comprises small square comic-book-style panels within the large square shape of the silk scarf and depicts a heroine (the Hermès woman) crossing Paris on jet skis, rollerblades, in cars and on horseback, observed by two amused golfers. It’s not only the pattern that makes this a Wow piece, but the way in which it is created; each side has its own colour scheme, with a multicoloured interpretation on the front and a monochrome version on the back.

From Paris to Switzerland

Bienvenu’s design inspired the Swiss horology workshop of Hermès Horloger and a double-sided dial. Thin and translucent like the silk thread of the scarf, it features mother-of-pearl, a dainty, elegant and feminine material through which the movement of light allows for a playfully radiant motif. The first side is initially reproduced in black ink, visible on both sides, with the entire décor of the motif hand-painted. Then pastel hues are painstakingly applied one by one: thick enough to give depth to the design, yet thin enough to let the light shine through — around 20 layers bring out every nuance of this design, each fired in the kiln at 90 °C to solidify the precious pigment.

Photos © David Marcho

The horse and heroine

The second face corresponds to the upper dial side of the watch with a sharper, denser effect for the Hermes woman and her steed. Together, they literally burst out of the dial. And silky, muted solid colours painted on the reverse side of the watch provide contrast. It takes more than 35 hours to produce one of these single dials. Finally, the timepiece is presented in an Arceau case designed by Henri d’Origny in 1978.

The Wow is available in two versions, both powered by the same Manufacture H1912 self-winding movement. One has a dial in soft pink tones, while the other boasts bluish accents. Paired with a Hermès calfskin strap and in white gold, they feature a bezel set with 82 diamonds and have been issued in a 24-piece limited edition.

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Made using a traditional silversmithing technique called ‘chasing’ this exceptional piece of craftsmanship is not just a bag, it’s an objet d’art.

© ARR

Crafted by skilled ‘Makers’ at the Tiffany & Co jeweller’s workshop, the sterling silver bag, weighing 2.2kg (approx. the weight of an electric kettle), is engraved with a floral pattern of lilies – the national flower of Italy – and roses, the emblematic blossom of New York State. The design is representative of the first ‘hand in hand’ partnership outside Italy, a natural partnership given the commitment shared by both luxury powerhouses to create exquisite savoir-faire. Fendi’s ambitious ‘hand in hand’ initiative celebrates local artisans and sublime craftsmanship.

A dedicated capsule collection of Tiffany Baguette bags in leather, diamonds and silk satin, evoking another icon, the Tiffany Blue Box has also been created to compliment this rare jewellery creation.

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Swiss and German engineering

The Swiss watchmaking brand Panerai and the German-based BRABUS luxury mobility brand began their partnership a year ago, intent on redefining the limits of technology, style and performance. Both brought their considerable experience in crafting instruments for dynamic, ground-breaking explorers and a deep respect for the sea; together creating a series of watches combining their individual specialisms, but forming a new, single identity. The Panerai Submersible S BRABUS Verde Militare Edition is their latest venture, produced in a limited edition of 200 pieces, and designed in line with the BRABUS Marine Shadow series of stealth green powerboats.

Carbotech and Caliber P. 4001/S

Its 47mm case is made of Carbotech, a composite material that’s lighter on the wrist than steel or titanium and resistant to corrosion. Strong and adaptable, it was first used in horology by Panerai, ideal for modern adventurers facing harsh conditions. A nod to the Marine Shadow appears in accents of green on the hands, rehaut, rubberized crown, am/pm indicator and the small seconds sub-dial. And the BRABUS logo appears on the movement lever and loop.

The watch is powered by a Caliber P. 4001/S, evolved from the original P.4000 calibre; this was the first automatic movement with an off-centre micro-rotor developed by the Panerai Manufacture at Neuchâtel. The Caliber P. 4001/S is automatic and skeletonized, with a three-day power reserve (an indicator on the reverse of the case keeps track of this). This skeletonised movement is clearly visible, unobstructed by the date disc, which is only seen through the window at 3 o’clock, due to a patented polarized date display.

Streamlined and skeletonised

The bridges and plates have been created to be as sparse as possible, allowing the focus to fall on the workings of the movement and keeping the watch super light in terms of weight. A unidirectionally rotating bezel calculates immersion time and GMT function, while the one-piece, off-centre oscillating weight allows for two-directional winding (although two spring barrels also wind the watch during wear). The stop balance wheel and seconds reset devices enable the time to synchronize with a reference time signal. Additionally, the watch is water-resistant to 30 bar (~ 300 meters).

Available in a limited edition of 200 pieces, the Submersible S BRABUS Verde Militare Edition, with its skeletonized structure, is water-resistant to 30 bar (300 meters) and features two straps, a black bi-material version and a second in military green rubber.

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Trusted companion of explorers 

Panerai has accompanied its wearers from the far reaches of the North Pole to deep under the sea and into outer space. Its ethos is all about creating instruments that can withstand even the most extreme conditions. As such, Panerai continues to invent novel solutions to enhance their watches’ performance, push limits and defy expectations – all within the realm of design codes. The brand began life in 19th-century Florence, with a workshop, a shop and later a school of watch-making. 

Its clients include the Italian Navy and its specialist diving corps, providing them with precision instruments. The designs developed by Panerai at that time (including the Luminor), were covered by the Military Secrets Act, before being launched on the international market after Panerai was acquired by the Richemont Group in 1997. 

Anywhere, anytime

Luminor Due TuttoOro is crafted at Panerai’s Neuchâtel manufacture, blending Italian design flair with the heritage of Swiss horological expertise. Slim contours and a tailored, uncomplicated silhouette, lend the Luminor Due to both casual and formal occasions and suits wearers of any gender. The 38mm case and bracelet are forged from Panerai Goldtech, a material integral to the brand’s styling, incorporating high copper content and platinum. Copper hues provide a deep, red tone to the metal, while the platinum content ensures its colour stays radiant and true.  

The brand’s renowned crown protection device has informed the bracelet’s design. Each link takes the profile of the iconic mechanism and applications of adjacent polished and brushed finishes gives it added dimension (rectangular shapes are used for a polished finish, with rounded areas ones carrying the brushed effect). 

Three days of power

The sandwich dial too is sun-brushed, sporting a gently textured surface that allows light to reflect along its surface with even the slightest motion. It displays minutes, hours, small seconds and the date and the watch is powered by an automatic calibre P.900. At just 4.2mm thick, it’s the first Panerai movement of its size to combine the date function alongside a three-day power reserve. Water-resistant to three bar (about 30 meters), the timepiece also includes a tool to allow interchangeability of the bracelet.

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Remembering a bygone era

Evoking the glamour and style of the mid-20th century Golden Age of travel, the timepiece boasts an elegant design and detailed craftsmanship. It harks back to a period when the then novelty of intercontinental travel, created a need for prestigious worldwide wristwatches, displaying all 24 time zones at once. This 21st-century Heures du Monde is one for discerning collectors, limited to just 24 pieces; fusing ANDERSEN Genève’s unique design and technical DNA with the storied heritage of the House of Asprey, it is something very special. 

Haute Horlogerie

Founded in the late 18th century, London-based Asprey has included generations of royalty, world leaders and global tastemakers among its clientele, and continues to be pioneering in its work with independent artisans. Meanwhile, ANDERSEN Genève was founded by the renowned watchmaker Svend Andersen in 1980, after he honed his expertise while working in the Grand Complications Workshop of Patek Philippe. In 1990, a decade after founding his own atelier, he produced his debut world timer, the Communication 24, inspired by Louis Cottier, inventor of the complication in the 1930s. This was followed by models including the Christopher Columbus, the Mundus and the Tempus Terrae editions – all sought after by worldwide collectors.

Featuring rare BlueGold

The Heures du Monde has many recognisable features; a restrained 39mm world timer with a curved, three-part case in 5N red gold, distinctive angular lugs (as seen on ANDERSEN Genève watches like the Secular Perpetual Calendar (1996) and the Orbita Lunae (2002), and a 21-carat BlueGold dial with a complex guilloché engraving inspired by a historic Asprey engine turning pattern. This BlueGold effect is achieved by mixing the precious metal with iron elements and heat-treating to turn it into this vibrant shade of blue, offering a unique tonality for each and every dial (thus far, ANDERSEN Genève is the only watchmaker to have mastered this process). And for the very first time, Asprey’s intricate diamond-shaped signature appears on a watch dial, engraved into the surface by a process of traditional hand guilloché.

Detailed handiwork

Asprey’s scrolled logo also appears on the bottom half of the dial; a feature reminiscent of some of the world’s most important mid-Century watches. As Asprey was responsible for introducing Patek Philippe to the United Kingdom, its logo adorned midcentury dials by makers such as Jaeger-leCoultre, Rolex and the Patek Philippe reference 2499 in yellow gold, which set a world record when it was auctioned in 2018 for CHF 3.9 million (£3,370,000). Heures du Monde also boasts ANDERSEN Genève’s modernist A-shaped hands in a stunning brushed finish. 

The case back has Cotes de Genève and perlage decorative finishes, with the movement finished by hand using special polishing of the wheels, ratchet teeth and mirror polished screws. The rotor is in BlueGold with a hand guilloché decoration in the historic Asprey pattern. 

Whether in the ANDERSEN Genève atelier on the banks of the Rhone, in Geneva or La Chaux-de-Fonds, every single component of this new watch is Swiss made, in partnership with the most passionate and skilled craftspeople, with no compromise on quality. 

andersen-geneve.ch

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The background 

RAYMOND WEIL wanted to procure a customised motorbike for promotional purposes, so it turned to the specialist firm, Meister Engineering, paying a visit to its showroom in the centre of Geneva. Meister Engineering, a collection of artisans and engineers, reimagines standard motorbikes, infusing its own distinctive blend of creativity, style and mechanical skill. Seeing these remarkable vehicles inspired the Genevan watch brand to create a new bronze timepiece equipped with a chronograph, the freelancer 7780.  

Inspired by the bespoke bike

The brand’s customised motorbike was made, with the name RAYMOND WEIL emblazoned the fuel tank in rose gold foil. This feature is echoed in the watch’s 43.5mm bronze case and the two counters gracing the dial. Likewise, the motorbike’s gradient effect paint provided the idea for the watch’s black smoked dial; an interesting display with light tones at the centre, that assume a darker shade near the edge. The tachymeter and pulsometer scales engraved on the motorcycle tank cap have been recreated on the watch’s satin-finished ceramic bezel insert and flange.  A rich brown calf leather strap has been inspired by the motorbike’s leather-clad seat, enlivened with contrasting stitching and paired with a bronze folding clasp equipped with a double push-security system. And a tachymeter scale, presented on the bezel, enables the wearer to determine the speed of a motorbike (or another vehicle) over a known distance. 

Attention to detail 

A symmetrical bi-compax layout features a 30-minute chronograph counter and a small seconds display, while the golden hour and minute hands are large and legible. The hour track is snailed, while the hands and indexes feature luminescent treatment, allowing clarity in darker conditions The central chronograph seconds hand, the hand on the 30-minute register and the numerals on the pulsometer scale are all in the same shade. A date display is positioned at 6 o’clock, contributing to the overall symmetry of the dial; its disc is presented in black, matching the colour of the dial, a feature proving very pleasing to the eye and contributing to the watch’s sophisticated appearance. 

Bronze and steel

Residing on a bronze-toned flange, a pulsometer scale allows the wearer to identify the heart rate of an individual. Over time the bronze will mature and form a patina, increasing its classic elegance. An exhibition case back is presented in stainless steel, with the Calibre RW5030 visible and the watch is fitted with a W-shaped skeleton oscillating weight, a reference to the founder’s surname. When the mainspring is fully wound, the watch will run autonomously for  56 hours. 

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